--- In Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com, Tim Hansen <togoforth@...> wrote:
>
> David, that's what I use on my Tornado with a Jabiru. A heat muff with heat sinks inside around the muffler, ducted to a junction box with scat tubes that gives me either carb heat or cabin heat controled from a knob on the panel. Only one moving part, which is the damper inside the box directing heat to one or the other. I can maintain around 60 degrees inside the cabin on a 30 degree day. Light weight and fairly easy to install.
>
> Tim Hansen
>
> --- On Tue, 10/20/09, David <davidshirar@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: David <davidshirar@...>
> Subject: [Titanaircraft] Re: Winter cockpit heater
> To: Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, October 20, 2009, 8:56 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hello fellas, im new and have been lurking for a few weeks. after seeing your post about coolant and oil heaters, the obvious question came to me...forgive this newbie conceptualization here , but the would it not be as effective to run a heat transfer type system around one of the exhaust headers from the bottom and into the cockpit? I mean a system like this gets heat from a non regulated source and bypasses the need for controls other than a sort of flue vent of sorts. havent others been using these on other titan airtcraft as well? :)
>
> David Shirar
>
> --- In Titanaircraft@ yahoogroups. com, Jeff Lewis <jlewis22@ .> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Peter, Thank you for taking the time to submit all this great info. I am in the middle of creating a heating unit for a Rans S-12. Your ideas are helpful.
> >
> > Jeff Lewis
> > jlewis22@
> > Kennewick Wa
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > From: lwoods102 <lwoods102@ ..>
> > To: Titanaircraft@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Monday, October 19, 2009 4:48:12 PM
> > Subject: [Titanaircraft] Re: Winter cockpit heater
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Peter:
> >
> > Good ideas and thanks for the URL. I had a good, long look at it and appreciate the reference.
> > I came away with good ideas that I will try out.
> >
> > Best,
> > Larry
> > --- In Titanaircraft@ yahoogroups. com, "Peter" <pcowan41@ .> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Larry If you look at the Napa 140/BMW thermostat,( see picture in: http://www.pipcom. com/~cowcam/ ransheat. htm )
> > > it accomplishes everything you want in one unit. First it is a bypass thermostat to handle quick warm up at full flow. With it in the system you can simply plumb the 5/8 rad across the main lines between the bmw thermostat and the engine.
> > > Yes in one installation I did put in a restricter valve to force more flow thru the cabin rad but you may find that unnecessary as long as the overall coolant temp is kept high by the thermostat. In my curent installation there is no restricter valve and it works fine.
> > > One difference between us is that you would have a much longer run to your cabin heater rad than I do and this may be preventing enough coolant to flow thru the cabin heater. Is this the case?
> > > P
> > >
> > > -
> > > >
> > > > The Tornado I work on employs a 582. The 582 has 1 inch diameter inlets/outlets, as do its rad(s). ROtax wants fairly large volume circulation and doesn't want the water pump flow restricted in any consequential way (at least that is what they told me), which means that I had to try to find a heater core with similar sized inlets/outlets.
> > >
> > > Why so? Isn't the heater core in parallel with the existing rad?
> > >
> > > I was not able to find any that were of reasonable size or weight so settled on one with 5/8ths inch diameter inlets/outlets. To meet the flow volume requirements, I decided to employ a three way "diverter valve", which is adjustable via a cable.
> > > >
> > > > The plumbing is fairly simple.... I put a Tee in the hose leaving the head (hot coolant) with the diverter valve on one side (to heater) and the other side plumbed to the rad inlet. From the tee, I necked down to 5/8th inch hose and plumbed to the heater. Like you, I have an additional tee in the coolant return circuit just upstream from the water pump entry. This tee provides coolant returning from the heater with access back into the primary circuit.
> > > >
> > > > In operation, the coolant warms up quickly (via the bypass circuit and its thermostat)irrespec tive of valve setting. Once the bypass thermostat opens up (drop in coolant temp), I open the valve which allows some hot coolant to flow to the heater. It doesn't take much practice to quickly get to know where the valve should be set to keep the engine temps at an appropriate (elevated) temperature. With this setup, I can adjust flows so that the coolant temperature is close to the upper temperature limits of the engine, which is best for both the engine and the pilot. (g).
> > > >
> > > > I really like the diverter valve. It will maintain a constant flow irrespective of the valve setting if all involved hoses are of the same diameter. Of course using different sized hoses interferes with this capability to some extent.
> > > >
> > > > This year, I intend to find an "inline" thermostat housing that I will fit in the primary circuit. A high temp thermostat located therein will open in the presence of excessive engine coolant temperature and open to feed coolant to the engine .
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Best,
> > > > Larry
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In Titanaircraft@ yahoogroups. com, "Peter" <pcowan41@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Larry are you referring to the need for thermostats? I'd be interested in hearing your comments on the issues.
> > > > >
> > > > > I fly with both an oil and a coolant thermostat and wouldn't be without them.
> > > > > The coolant thermostat is a BMW bypass unit from NAPA for about $40 (available in the US only it seems).It has 1 1/4" holes so necking down is required but it works just fine.
> > > > > The oil is a Permacool modified by machining the seat to remove the notches which allow oil to bypass the cooler when the unit is hot. You don't want any oil bypassing the cooler when hot. Without this mod you get hotter temps in summer. The permacool also takes a standard auto thermostat wax stat so it is easy to increase it from the standard 171 to over 190.
> > > > > I just cut in a T into both the coolant lines running to and from the rad and put the cabin heater core and a valve between the T's. I also have an outside air inlet ducted to the heater core. The coolant thermostat takes care of keeping the temp up.
> > > > > Peter
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In Titanaircraft@ yahoogroups. com, "lwoods102" <lwoods102@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Last year, I spent far too much time developing a cockpit heater system for the Tornado, but the result works well and is not expensive. This winter, I will add one more improvement (which will keep the engine coolant temp where it belongs without the pilot having to adjust it manually).
> > > > > >
> > > > > > What looks like a simple job (simply syphoning off some of the hot coolant to the heater), is anything but. There are several things that have to be taken into consideration, especially if you want the engine to operate at factory-recommended temperatures.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Best,
> > > > > > Larry
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
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