Rob,
I'm curious if you have the 2-stroke throttle lever or the 912 lever. The old two-stroke lever doesn't have a cable attachment that hangs below the pivot bolt. Also, you will need to re-drill the 912 lever anyway to set the correct cable travel for the carb. Even so, the correct position may be further inboard than the lever has for a flat area. If that is the case, you can make an extension bracket and bolt it to the throttle lever (outboard to inboard) so you have a correct position for the full lever travel since the correct point may end up on the Z-bend on the lever.
I've flown and worked on a few Tornados that had the throttle cables slapped-together so that just connected the cable to the throttle lever in the factory hole without re-drilling it for the correct travel, so the entire throttle range was covered by about half the throttle lever travel and it would buckle the cable slack by trying to push the cable back in the housing when moving the lever beyond half of the lever travel, which obviously does nothing for power since you're already at full throttle.
The I've seen others drill a hole through the limiter/lever-pivot plate and stick a bolt through to keep the throttle lever from moving its full potential travel. Again--another mickey-mouse way to do it -- and if I ever see that one again, it will be too soon.
Correct on the enrichment cable, just leave it if it is moving in the direction you want. Pulling against the spring enables the circuit.
--Kimberly
.
----- Original Message -----
From: jrceacampo
To: Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2009 7:31 AM
Subject: [Titanaircraft] Re: Starter Relay wires
Thank you again,
I'll have to get that throttle cable to come from the back then, but you have to turn that carb bracket around (or make a new one)? Do you have a photo of that on a 2200 perhaps?
My Eng. serial # is 2785.
As for the enrichment (I call it the choke) I think should be fine as is. Is this one closed with the spring relaxed?
Thanks,
Rob.
--- In Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com, "Kimberly Panos" <kimberly@...> wrote:
>
> Rob,
>
> Correct on the cables. All functions on the Bing 4-stroke carbs are pull to close (if you think of the enrichment as choke). Throttle pulls to close and the starting enrichment circuit pulls for 'rich'.
>
> I can't remember which generation of 2200 you have, but the Jabiru 2200 single phase alternator provides 5 pulses per rev for the tach setting.
>
> --Kimberly
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: jrceacampo
> To: Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 7:15 PM
> Subject: [Titanaircraft] Re: Starter Relay wires
>
>
> Thanks Kimberly;
> I tested it and it worked just fine...I fired up the engine for the first time with a couple of surprises:
> The throttle connection was backwards, wide open when the handle is all the way to the back and iddle full forward, I'll have to change that, is the choke also reversed?
> The other thing is that I had the warp blades fixed as a tractor!!! But no major issues besides that.
>
> The E1 stratomaster was giving me the wrong RPM readings, do you know what the setting is for the pulses of the 2200 engine and the Temp probe type from Jabiru?
>
> Thanks,
> Rob.
>
> --- In Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com, "Kimberly Panos" <kimberly@> wrote:
> >
> > Rob,
> >
> > If you are talking about the starter relay Jabiru ships with the engine or other similar relays with bake-lite housings, just ground the metal frame, then touch power to each of the small poles. Only one of them will do anything, and it will energize the relay with a 'clack!', which is the one you want and the other will do nothing. Just ignore and insulate the small pole that doesn't do anything when you apply power to it, but especially do NOT ground it. That pole is used for an ignition bypass for DC-powered ignition systems with a ballast resistor. This means that when the starter relay is energized (frame grounded properly) with the battery cables connected, that pole goes hot and becomes a dead short to ground, and that circuit will promptly go up in smoke.
> >
> > ---Kimberly
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: jrceacampo
> > To: Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2009 8:23 PM
> > Subject: [Titanaircraft] Re: Starter Relay wires
> >
> >
> > Thanks Tim!
> > The starter switch goes into the small one, ok, I guess you are talking about the two small terminals in the middle, which one of those two? (if you have the starter relay facing up with the two main post upward, and the mounting plate away from you, then you have one terminal on each side)
> > Thanks,
> > Rob.
> >
> > --- In Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com, Tim Hansen <togoforth@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I forgot. The starter switch wire goes to the small, third pole.
> > >
> > > Tim
> > >
> > > --- On Thu, 7/23/09, jrceacampo <jrceacampo@> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > From: jrceacampo <jrceacampo@>
> > > Subject: [Titanaircraft] Starter Relay wires
> > > To: Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com
> > > Date: Thursday, July 23, 2009, 3:52 PM
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi:
> > > Not sure about how it's connected, I pretty much know the wires associated with it. But the unit has no information on it. My question is, which goes to what terminal on the starter solenoid? Specifically the one from the start switch (I have the ACS ignition.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Robert
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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